Anyone who loves embroidery knows the ethereal beauty of Chikankari. Originating from the cultural city of Lucknow, this intricate form of embroidery has captured the imagination and hearts of people worldwide. This stunning craft embeds delicate patterns on fabrics using white thread. Involving a plethora of stitches such as backstitch, chain stitch, and hemstitch, this craft form is lovingly handwoven on fabric with each stitch echoing the culture and tradition of Lucknow. Mughal art has also had a heavy influence on this embroidery technique with Mughal-inspired motifs such as floral patterns and paisley being often present in the Chikankari embroidery. Apart from this, Chikankari sarees are world-renowned for their grace and beauty. So let us get to know this stunning embroidery technique a bit more in detail. Read along to learn all about the Chikankari craft:
- Its roots Can be Traced to the Mughal era: Chikankari Embroidery has a rich history and its origins go as far back as the Mughal era. It is believed that this craft form was first introduced by the emperor Jahangir and was popularized by his wife Nur Jahan, who famously patronized arts and crafts. In fact, the word ‘Chikan’ is the Persian word for embroidery. It was initially only used to adorn royal garments, however, its popularity quickly spread across India. This is especially true for the city of Lucknow where it bloomed. Thus, Lucknowi sareeshave been around for an eon of time.
- It is Charmingly Hand Embroidered: One of the most exquisite facts about Chikankari work is that it is painstakingly hand embroidered. It uses fine needlework to craft beautiful embroideries on the fabric. Each design that is fabricated requires a lot of patience and skill. The technique involves transferring the design on the fabric using block printing and then hand-weaving each stitch using techniques such as Bakhiya (Shadow Work), Jaali (Net patterns), and Phanda (Knots). These beautiful stitches come together to create an opulent fabric that is beyond beauteous to look at.
- Fabrics that are used: Traditionally, the Chikankari work was only done on the flowy and buoyant Muslin fabric. But as contemporary trends have shifted towards other fabrics, this embroidery is seen on lightweight fabrics such as cotton, chiffon, and georgette. The airy nature of these fabrics allows the complex stitches to stand out exquisitely. This is why Chikan sareesmade out of these fabrics are beloved by one and all.
- The Labrous process involved: Making a Chikankari saree is definitely no easy feat. The process requires hours and hours of intensive labor. Artisans painstakingly work on designing the embroidery and stitching it. Each step is complex and requires intense precision. Hence, making a Chikankari Saree can take days or even weeks if the design is particularly complex.
- Influence on Contemporary Fashion: Traditionally, Chikankari embroidery could only be found on sareesand salwar suits. However, this is now changing with more and more designers using this stunning art form in Western clothes. This ethereal embroidery technique can now be found on dresses and gowns. It has also made its way into Western fashion and now tops and skirts featuring this beautiful embroidery are becoming popular.
- Eco-friendly Artisanry: Chikankari craft is not only super elegant but it is also environment friendly. As the embroidery is stitched by hand, there are no machines involved. This saves a lot of electricity and power. Apart from this, the craftsmen also use eco-friendly dyes and fabrics, thus putting harsh dyes that harm the environment out of the picture. Thus, next time you go Chikankari sarees shopping online, know that you are doing good for the environment.
- Gorgeous nature-inspired motifs: One of the defining factors of Chikankari embroidery is the elegant motifs it features. These motifs are usually nature-inspired and include designs like veins, florals, paisleys, and geometric patterns. These intricate designs showcase the beauty and opulence of Chikankari work. Many of these patterns are inspired by Mughal art and architecture and are brimming with intricacy and elegance. These motifs have transcended time and are beloved by many, centuries later.
- A Tribute to the Lucknowi Culture:As we mentioned earlier, the Chikankari craft has blossomed in the city of Lucknow. Known as the city of Nawabs, the embroidery form serves as a testament to the culture and heritage of Lucknow. This craft is the bread and butter of thousands of artisans in the city, who painstakingly work to preserve its legacy.
- Elegant Modern Variations: Traditionally, the Chikankari embroidery form was done using white threads on a fabric. However, the winds of trends are now shifting and artisans are using colorful threads in their work. While before only white Chikankari sarees were popular, now we get to see sarees such as Yellow Chikankari Saree, Red Chikankari sarees, and many more.
Thus, now you have extensive knowledge about all things Chikankari. Grab a Chikankari saree or Kurta for your next outing and get compliments from everyone you know.
